Viagra Forward controls

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neale
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:57 pm
Location: Sydeny NSW

Viagra Forward controls

Post by neale » Thu Jun 14, 2012 4:59 pm

OK, Virago, you know wot I mean.

I've got some aftermarket forward controls on my XV1000, which do the job fine, but there are a number of things about them that I just don't get;

For a start, as it's a frameless design at the bottom, you only have the original pair of mounting points for the peg mount side bars to mount the things, so there's a plate right down each side of the engine, a 1CM thick steel plate, surely that's overkill? I do know that those big 1CM steel plates and the solid steel spacers adds a good few kilos or more to the bike.

I'd also like to raise the peg mounts 4-5CM to give a bit more cornering clearance, especially as I'd like to rake the front a bit and lower the front up to 2-3CM (I've already ground a bit off the end of the left folding peg on corners).

Anyway, as I'm starting to get the bits together to try and fabricate something (tube bender, welding torch etc), I was thinking that it SHOULD be possible to make a much neater/elegant and lighter setup with 3/4 - 1" steel tubing, curved up at the ends for the rear mounts and the peg mounts, and using similar tubing to replace the solid steel spacers over the cross bolt (through the front mount), and the spacers on the peg mounts. (and possibly to replace the shifter/brake lever plates with curved tubing jobs too)

I was thinking that it'd be cool to make the whole mount on the front only, but I can't see how to make a solid mount (IE won't turn on the bolt through the front mount) without adding something like downtubes, and I'd rather not go down that path as it'd clutter up the look of the front of the motor.

Anyway, given that you don't stand on forwards controls the way you do on a dirt bike, surely quality 3/4-1" tubing would have plenty of strength for this purpose, wouldn't it?

As usual, if anyone knows a reason that this is a stupid idea, I'll be happy to hear it, tryin' to learn here.

Thanks,

Neale
Neale
'85 XV1000 with some mods, getting there
'86 XT600Z, going under the knife ASAP

Prof
Founder, Choppers Australia
Posts: 5876
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
Location: Willunga, South Australia
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Re: Viagra Forward controls

Post by Prof » Fri Jun 15, 2012 10:00 am

You'll need to support your mounts from three points, not just the front engine bolt ( A number of instiances I know of the lug breakding off) Use 2mm walled 1" tube. You won't stand on them , but braking especially puts a lot of pressue on them and you need them to be strong enough for if you drop the bike. Some light but inconspicuous gusseting at the joints will stiffen things up a lot too.

When you rake the fornt end, I suggest you stretch it 4-6" as well. Plating up by steering head is dwouble walled so you'll need a 5" angle grinder (difficult) or a reciprocating saw to get through it all.

YOu can see a couple of examples in The Chopper Shed threads. If the guys had had a bit more money, I would have removed the entire top frame section and replaced it with 2" tube and welded in the down tubes to create a traditional style of frame which definitely looks tidier and less bulky.

Down tubes then give a solid base to forwards.
Chopit'nrideit... Prof

neale
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:57 pm
Location: Sydeny NSW

Re: Viagra Forward controls

Post by neale » Fri Jun 15, 2012 10:26 am

Ta Prof, never heard of the front mount breaking, as that's the standard front support for the foot peg rails I would have thought that people would have been ranting about that if it was known to break.

What I was thinking of was a modified (obviously) version of the original rails, weld cross tubes onto the FC side rails with tabs down to the centre mounting lug on the inside, was thinking that that should be stronger than running the bolt through, as well as cleaner.

As far as stretching or replacing the neck/top tube (which I believe is what you were saying?), wouldn't that mean having to get the bike totally re-engineered? I was hoping to avoid that if I could. Does stretching the neck add any tangible benefits? I thought that was primarily an aesthetic change, and not one that adds to the bike for me , personally. (NB; yeah, I did know that it's double walled, someone put up pictures after he cut through it, if nothing else, at least it should be strong with the strong box section inside.)

Thanks,

Neale
Neale
'85 XV1000 with some mods, getting there
'86 XT600Z, going under the knife ASAP

Prof
Founder, Choppers Australia
Posts: 5876
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
Location: Willunga, South Australia
Contact:

Re: Viagra Forward controls

Post by Prof » Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:59 pm

You said you wanted to rake the neck and that will require engineering, so if you are going to rake the neck then stretch it as well.

Neck stretch on these bikes not only makes them look less like they ran into the back of a truck, but also improve stability on the highway immensely.

We have proven it with the ones we have done here... just real steady on the road... due to longer wheel base as well as increased trail from extra rake.
Chopit'nrideit... Prof

neale
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:57 pm
Location: Sydeny NSW

Re: Viagra Forward controls

Post by neale » Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:39 pm

OK. ta.

I was sorta hoping that modest changes made to a registered bike may be able to be slipped through without engineering certificates.

Neale
Neale
'85 XV1000 with some mods, getting there
'86 XT600Z, going under the knife ASAP

Prof
Founder, Choppers Australia
Posts: 5876
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
Location: Willunga, South Australia
Contact:

Re: Viagra Forward controls

Post by Prof » Sat Jun 16, 2012 10:14 am

May depend how much rake you add and how neat the job is. Not sure how closely your regio guys look at things... guys in your state should know.
Chopit'nrideit... Prof

neale
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:57 pm
Location: Sydeny NSW

Re: Viagra Forward controls

Post by neale » Sat Jun 16, 2012 7:26 pm

Prof wrote:You'll need to support your mounts from three points, not just the front engine bolt ( A number of instiances I know of the lug breakding off) Use 2mm walled 1" tube. You won't stand on them , but braking especially puts a lot of pressue on them and you need them to be strong enough for if you drop the bike. Some light but inconspicuous gusseting at the joints will stiffen things up a lot too.
That's weird, I always thought that the standard footpeg mounting sidebars were thin/small tubing, went to check the ones I took off today and they were 7/8-1" tubing, so yeah, making them 1" would make sense. Also noted that while the ends were flattened as I was planning on doing for the mounting points, they've filled them out with approx 3mm plate inserts, probably a good practice to copy. Noted that the mounting tabs that they made at the front were 1CM plate, like the side plates of the existing forward controls\, another practice that prob makes sense.

Guess I need to get the torch and learn how to use it.

Neale
Neale
'85 XV1000 with some mods, getting there
'86 XT600Z, going under the knife ASAP

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