18. Bits & Pieces#1...

A blow by blow photographic account of chopping from stock to chop... This projcet has been given its own forum due to the large number of photos it contains making uploading slow for those of you still on "dial up".
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Prof
Founder, Choppers Australia
Posts: 5757
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
Location: Willunga, South Australia
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18. Bits & Pieces#1...

Post by Prof » Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:38 pm

Oil Drain...

Standard Sportster oil tank drain plug is situated just above the chain and is a pig to get at at any time. With lowered rear end, draining oil would be messy indeed. Solution? Replace the plug with a right angled tube and extend it across to other side of bike and finish off witha little tap...

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Here is the replacement right angle . The silver soldered joint is not the best as I rushed it late one night.

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These little hexagonal ball taps can be purchased at hydraulic places and plumbers' supplies. I've turned one end round in the lathe to take a mounting bracket. Mounting bracket is made from a piece of heavy walled tube with a nut welded to it. A tab on the frame (shown here bolted to tap bracket) takes a bolt that screws into the bracket. The plastic tap handle has been removed and tap is operated with pliers. Tap handle left on would be toooo tempting...

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This pic shows underside of tank with a piece of hose and the tap to show how it all fits together. The brass fitting seen here will actually be clamped to a length of hose that goes into the sump oil container. Draining the oil will now be a breeze!

Electrics/tool enclosure...

Area under seat is bounded by oil tank, battery box and electrics cover. If I enclose it along the rear frame rails where they come up to meet the seat, there will be a nice place to not only have all the elcetrics by also a place for some tools, spare globes etc as well...

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Looking down from above... A piece of computer case provides a suitable thickness steel ans is here being marked with a texta ready to cut and fit. I will weld it to frame tubes. Bracket at top of picture is forward mudguard mount. Always use two bolts at each mounting position of muguards to keep them firm. Single bolted guards have a habit of cracking...

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This pic shows underside of enclosure welded in. Cutout in top left is mudguard relief. Here I have welded in two nuts for mounting the electronic ignition box. When you weld in nuts, put a long bolt into them for two reasons... 1. to hold the nut, 2. to allow you to line it up to ensure it is at right angles (perpendicular).

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Original batery holder with a couple of mods... Two right hand brackets have been moved 1" to left to shift the battery a bit further away from the rear cylinder head, and the round hole underneath has been lengthened to allow the battery to be pushed over the lip with a couple of fingers. There is no room above to grip battery.

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Three sides welded onto battery box to stop stored tools falling out when battery is removed and to make it all look a bit nicer...

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Amazing what a bit of time with an angle grinder and linishing wheel can do. Threaded tab at front is for the battery strap...

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Original electics cover has been widened an inch. Seat overhangs frame, so we might as well make use of the space.

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Volt meter and ignition switch in electrics cover. Volt meter is a great gauge to have. At a glance you can see at a glance if your battery is being charged and reduce the likelyhood of a flat battery due to a broken or loose wire or something.

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Oil tank mounts on this side. I raised it half an inch, so have welded in this strip on top of frame rail to stop things falling out of tool area. Curved piece of metal (with hole in it for a taillight switch) at the rear fills in another gap. You can see the coil mount bracket on mudguard.

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Final check that all electrcical components have a place before moulding and painting.

White box in middle is a junction box for accessories. A single line comes off the fuse to blue clip which transmits the power via a piece of copper bar bent at right angles with a tab made for each of the four junctions... horn, brake light, indicators and a positive lead for recharging Michael's camera flash batteries.
Box on right is indicator box. Coil is mounted to right on mudguard. Black wiring loom coming through is taillight wiring... via a special hole punched in the guard...

Oil tank drain line was checked for clearance between frame and sheetmetal and a mounting tab for brake light pressure switch made under frame. High tension leads from coil just fit above battery. Hope we haven't missed anything cos moulding is about to start...
Chopit'nrideit... Prof

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