Kevins Trumpy...

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Postby El Skitzo » Fri May 27, 2011 10:12 am

Have you got more pics of the rear fender and your cutting and shutting on it?

I bet it would have been a lot of work to maintain the nice curve the swage line in the side has while you were tightening the diameter of the whole thing? Very impressive work, most people wouldn't even notice looking at it, but have one hanging on my bike at the moment I can understand what a job that was!
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Postby latelifecrisis » Fri May 27, 2011 10:22 am

I like the look of that, specificaly the colour, the ( Oh I know this is the wrong name ) the forward pegs, and the sissy bar just not sure if that would be legal up here due to the pointy bits. I am sure they would claim we could throw Anna onto that.
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Postby Happosai » Fri May 27, 2011 2:16 pm

El Skitzo wrote:Have you got more pics of the rear fender and your cutting and shutting on it?

I bet it would have been a lot of work to maintain the nice curve the swage line in the side has while you were tightening the diameter of the whole thing? Very impressive work, most people wouldn't even notice looking at it, but have one hanging on my bike at the moment I can understand what a job that was!


SKitz

looks like its one of these with the valance cut off


http://cgi.ebay.com.au/7-WIDE-FATBOB-REAR-GUARD-HARLEY-SPORTSTER-UNPAINTED-/310306522546

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Postby Prof » Fri May 27, 2011 11:45 pm

SEcond attempt to post. Just got it finished an hour or so ago and our internet went down.

Guard was cut and shut to match wheel. Trick to cutting curves on guards etc is to use 'worn out' 1mm angle grinder blades ie ones with 15mm of blade left as their small diameter allows you to cut curves All my worn out blades are kept on a nail by my vice for this purpose.

Image

Image

How long to make a guard. Some authorities seem to want the guard to vertically cover the wheel, so I suggest this method. Keep the guard a bit shorter for looks, but overhing the number plate. If they really get tough, cut uo a piece of 8mm rubber 6" wide and bolt that in a curve like a 'mud flap'

Image

Others require the guard to come to 45 degrees past the axle. I use this triangle made from a piece of harboard to quickly ascertain the required position. 'Scientific' and can ba argued as such ie a definite measurement as listed in regs.

Image
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Postby El Skitzo » Sat May 28, 2011 1:38 am

Thanks for the pictures Prof, much appreciated, you've really got me thinking about trying the same thing as it looks excellent. The super thin metal they use on these fenders has me nervous of rewelding though.

BTW that is an awesome rear fender guage, maybe you could make more and sell them too :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Postby Prof » Sat May 28, 2011 11:29 pm

Welding is no problems with mig, tig or gas ans should be even easier with the DHC (Still haven't found time to try mine!). Just tack every inch and then fill in between tacks alternating to keep metal form heating up too much.

You can also finish off the edge with a piece of 3 or 4 mm round barTakc it and then use bog to finish it. Alternatively if you have more patience than me you can solder it.
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Postby Darryl » Mon Jun 06, 2011 10:36 am

nice bike
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Postby Brassy » Tue Jun 07, 2011 9:38 am

Last pic is a great idea, saves stuffing around with measurements. I use a small cutting wheel in place of the larger grinder it fits into tight spots well and the accuracy is there I find the larger grinder if handled incorrectly or anable to see the job, leads to very large mistakes as oppossed to the little cut off wheel. But thats just me being me!
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Postby Prof » Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:46 pm

Small cut off whell is something I need to organise. I have set up one for the die grinder using same 1mm angle grinder blades. Must remember that.
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Postby Brassy » Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:16 am

I got an air one out of the states $35 including postage and 5 wheels I was happy with the deal.
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