Narrow glide front end for Jon's sporty...

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Prof
Founder, Choppers Australia
Posts: 5622
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
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Narrow glide front end for Jon's sporty...

Post by Prof » Sun Feb 28, 2016 4:07 pm

Jon has been riding his Sporty for a couple of years and gradually modifying it to suit his tastes. We set up forwards on it last year and he has been saving up for a narrow glide front end. This photo is of the bike after we did the forwards, but is a good illustration of the look of the wide glide and fat wheel he is replacing. Paint is no longer yellow but a silver "Jon special" job. He also has sky scraper bars...
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He bought a second hand narrow glide front end from K&M and I picked up a second hand set of fork tubes to cut down for slugs. Because of the top taper, covers have to be used over the joins, so this method of making slugs is a cheaper option than machining up a complete slug. Just the bottom threaded section needs to be machined. It is just a copy of a top nut, plus I always add an extension to the thread end that is a firm slide fit inside the fork tube for extra support. Other end that is pressed into the short pice of fork tube is 1.5 diameter of the new extensionr...
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A tight press fit...
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Welded to hold the two pieces together. Voila a less expensive slug. By the way, don't let anyone tell you slugs are dangerous. If kept to 6" or less and made properly, they will never budge or break.
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I supplied Jon with a 19" narrow glide wheel. The brake rotor runs 3/8" counter sunk bolts whereas the wheel hub was threaded for 5/16" socket head bolts. This meant redrilling and tapping for the new size...
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This requires two thread taps; starting with a taper tap and finishing the blind hole with a bottoming tap...
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A collar needed to be made because the hole that locates the rotor is larger on Jon's rotor than the wheel is designed for. They also have three different locating holes and three or four different size and style of fastening bolts. Makes mixing and matching interesting to say the least. This pic of the slot that locates the speedo drive...
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While I was doing this, Jon removed the wide glide set up and installed the bottom narrow glide triple tree and forks. The way to tighten slugs is to clamp the fork tube in the bottom triple tree, clamp the top triple tree onto the slug and then wind it up...
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Arrow here shows the triple tree being used as a spanner. For the love of Mike, do not use a pipe wrench!!!!
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Small spacer had to be made for right side of wheel...
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We were in a bit of a rush to get the job done and when we put in the wheel I realised I should have taken a bit more time to check out what we had. Harley ran 10" rotors on the early narrow glide sporties and Fx's and later changed to 11½". I assumed the Jon's rake caliper was one of the earlier 10" narrow glide caliper. But it was for the later larger rotor. This is the caliper/10" rotor set up on the 77 to 83 sporties...
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This is Jon's set up 83/84 onwards 11½" set up. Speedo drive on these are left hand, while earlier drives fitted the right hand side.
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Ayway, we swapped to the 11½" rotor and all was fine. Here all assembled..
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John then took the chopper for a spin and came back, speedo not working. The metal locating tab had bent out of the way. What was up?

When we spun the speedo drive backwards it worked fon. When we ran it forwards it locked up! Brand new drive by the way. I didn't have another left hand drive, so we pulled it apart. This is done by removing that little locking screw and twisting out the threaded cable mount which is pressed in. A bit of playing around with it revealed that it needed a small spacer bush as the drive was pushing the worm drive forwards and jamming. Spacer made and it worked pretty well. Sorry I forgot a pic of it pulled apart...
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To back up a bit, Jon needed a new headlight mount and we used my old shovel mount which bolts across the triple tree clamp bolts.
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Jon also purchased a sporty tank to replace the fatbob set up the chopper came with. The speedo and ignition switch was in the tank and this meant a new mini speedo a new ignition switch and a big wiring mess to clean up. Ignition switch was mounted behind the battery and the ignition and light wires extended to reach it. Wiring had to be cut and two junction strips were mounted inside this neat little alloy box from Jaycar.
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Front of tank was mounted by drilling a hole through the top tube. Not a problem in this case as the steel is very thick (unlike jap bikes) and was gusseted past the hole. A 5/16 UNF thread was tapped in the top tube to hold the rear of the tank. Jon mounted the mini speedo alongside the oil pressure gauge...
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Job done. Everything works fine. Jon prefers the new set up, nicer steering and more stable than the wide glide and 16 incher. Forks were aligned using a couple of steel rules. Jon is really rapt in his new look and feel. The bike actually sits a bit higher in front as the wide glides had mildly raked triple trees. He is considering raking the steering head later on. Next job though, is paint to match the "Jon special" you can see on the rear guard. The sporty will also be rewired at a later date. Meanwhile its time to get some miles up on the cool new ride...
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Chopit'nrideit... Prof

Youngblood
Posts: 341
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 1:48 pm
Location: North-Eastern suburbs- Adelaide

Re: Narrow glide front end for Jon's sporty...

Post by Youngblood » Sat Mar 05, 2016 1:36 pm

8) 8) 8)
Youngblood

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