GSX chopper #3, finish rear, coil mounts, tank filler & tap

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Prof
Founder, Choppers Australia
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Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
Location: Willunga, South Australia
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GSX chopper #3, finish rear, coil mounts, tank filler & tap

Post by Prof » Tue Jun 21, 2016 8:00 pm

James was up yesterday and we got some more work done; before he unfortunately had to leave early.

To finish the rear end we need to run a third guard support. This is made out of 30 x 6 flat bar. The guard is at a slightly different angle to the frame, so...
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We put a slight twist in each end using a big shifter purchased form a swap met just for this kind of job...
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Support needs to be square to frame, so once again we measure from the rear of the cylinder heads...
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Once the frame rails are marked, James bolts up the bracket to the guard and we make sure it is level. This is done using the the ruler across the frame rails and making sure the gaps are the same...
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Done. We still need to set up mounts to locate the rear seat, but will leave it until we make the seat...
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James has decided on filler cap. He'll use a 1.25inch water pipe collar,premachined into a slim neck and get his dad who works on a CNC lathe to make him a righteous cap...
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To centre the filler neck, we use a carpenter square to mark each from each side of the front mount which is centred...
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Steel rule use to mark centre line...
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Now we'll cut the hole with a bimetal hole saw. Big cross marks centre so we can check that the saw remains centred...
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Neck is tack welded and then levelled using a ruler across the top and a tape to the floor...
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Bronze welded in...
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Hole from cutting out the old filler needs to be filled. A piece of cardboard is pressed against the metal to leave an indent (arrow) that will give us the perfect shape we need to cut out of steel...
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Steel is cut out and final exact shape finished off on linishing wheel. The bronze 'handle' prevents me losing the piece into the tank. Also now used to hole it in place. We only need the tow pieces of metal to match up at one spot. Once this is tacked, we remove the handle and work other spots to match up...
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Here tacked at different places. Thin metal buckles with too much heat, so welding has to be done carefully and at different places to keep buckling to a minimum...
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An HD Petrol tap is to be used. Original thread is cleaned up and will be reused...
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Tap is tested against tank and carby fuel hose to get location and angles...
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Tap bung has to be welded onto a piece of tube...
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... which is then trimmed to match the angle of the tank side. Stepped drill used to cut the hole...
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Metals thoroughly cleaned ...
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...and the bung is welded in place with steel. In the past I would have used bronze, but now with my Henrob welding torch use steel a lot more; it seems to seal better than bronxe which often ends up with pinhole leaks...
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When I burnt the paint off ready for welding in the filler neck, I discovered a deep filled dent. To maximise fuel capacity and because I don't like lumps of filler, I will pull this dent out.
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An easy way to do it is to run a cut through the low spot...
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... and pull the two sides out using heat and some especially bent screw drivers made for these kinds of jobs. Bending quality screw drivers requires heat. Don't get them hotter than cherry red when making them. Once you have the shape, reheat to cherry red and dunk in cold water or oil to reharden them.
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Pulled out and welded...
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Tank remounted. Tap can be seen here. I will probably cut down the bung thread as the tap hangs down further than necessary of for good looks...
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Chopit'nrideit... Prof

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