Here's how we set up the front brake...
After market set ups can be purchased that will fit the DNA and meatballs springers. However I have often found that the spacers are not satisfactory and leverage of the brake anchor is wrong. Also, the manufacturers seem to like to poke the caliper way out in front which might advertise their product, but in my opinion as an artist does not flow with the rest of the chopper. They are fairly pricey too, usually over $500.
I prefer to use the original caliper if I can or a late model HD caliper that looks good and mounts easily. On ICV's using the original brakes also reduces hoops that have to be jumped through.
Any way, step one is to set up the springer...

... and compress it fully so I know how close I can mount the caliper without fouling the front legs...

Because I am also setting up the front guard, the springer needs to be fully compressed...

Wheel needs to be centred. Both tyre and rim to springer rear leg distances are measured...


Spacer opposite brake caliper is machined out of stainless. I prefer to mount the caliper on the left side as most photos are taken from the right hand side and the wheel looks lighter and more 'chopperish'...

Now to make spacer a bit prettier!...

Spacer installed. I keep the spacers fairly bulky so they provide a decent surface to press against the rocker when the axle is tightened to keep the front end as stiff as possible... the less flex(especially on long narrow springers) the better...

Dummy spacer is made to check wheel spacing...

Modifying a rear caliper would be an excellent solution, but unfortunately there is not enough metal at the axle end to allow for a strong mounting with the required bushing...

Bronze bush is made in four parts... actual bearing surface here and the steel sleeve that will rock on the bush. Brass is not suitable for bushes here because unlike bronze, they wear quickly. Wealon though self lubricating is not satisfactory because it compresses when the axle is tightened...

Washers cut from larger diameter bronze bar fit over each end of the main bush and are silver soldered...

Next is the caliper mount to made out of 12mm steel bar. Carboard pattern first...

Cut to approximate final shape and now to work out the mounting of the anchor...

On the Meatballs springer, the brake anchor mount is fixed. Brake anchor should preferably be same length as the rocker so brake moves in unison with the rocker. Its angle is also very important. In the diagramme, A-X anchor position is parallel to the rocker. As the brake is applied, the front end will naturally dive. In the B-X position, brake will actually pull the front end down harder and cause excessive dive. In the C-X position dive will be reduced by the brake trying to pull the fork leg up. The amount will depend on the height of C. I add 16mm. Also a piece of threaded rod is used to join the heim joints and one lock nut used...

Measurements marked on the caliper mount pattern (90mm to 106mm) and dimensions measured up for the shoulder screw. Screw in pic is an example...

Caliper holes drilled with centre bit. Note the handy little adjustable stand to stop the bracket moving under drill pressure. I picked them up at a swap meet...

Caliper centred on them and front heim joint of anchor set in place and hole marked...

All three holes now drilled. Heim mounting hole will be thread tapped...

Easiest way to mark the steel off the pattern is to 'colour' the steel with texta and use a thin pointed spoke to scribe a fine line...

Measuring for length...

Mount is cleaned up on the linshing machine. This small belt sander is also mounted to use on smaller radiuses...

Final measurement is done with the caliper in place. Clearance is needed between the outer curve of the rotor and the caliper. This gap is imitated with a piece of 15amp electrical wire (purple in this pic)...

Cut and curved to match sleeve OD. Note that I have also had to put a slight inward kink in the caliper mount to clear the rocker. This was done in the press, but can be done by cutting 2/3 way through, bending by hand and welding up the gap (see previous posts for this process)...

...Then v'd for welding...

shoulder screw is needed for the rear heim to springer leg mounting tab. A large bolt is used...

Finished and threaded...

Two halves of the bush...

Final fitting of the caliper sleeve to the bush. Bush is clamped in the vice to mimic being clamped by the axle nuts. I like to leave about 1mm to 1.5mm clearance...

Caliper mount tacked to the sleeve...

To provide needed clearance for the front heim joint and spacer is turned up and will be bronzed in place...

I want to keep the caliper as close to the front legs as possible, so a small relief needs to be milled. Marvin my workman for 2 months in background...

Close up of the milled section...

Hey! It fits! A longer bolt will be used on the front heim joint so a lock nut can be used... important on brake anchors front and back. Bolt/nut combinations need to be either lock nutted or wired or a split pin used...

Fully welding has pulled the collar very slightly out of round, so it is blacked with texta inside and lightly sanded with the die grinder attachment until is is a nice fit...

Checking for free play before fitting...

Guard mounting next...