001 Bazza's Triumph...
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Prof
- Founder, Choppers Australia
- Posts: 6038
- Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
- Location: Willunga, South Australia
- Contact:
001 Bazza's Triumph...
Here's a photo of Bazza's Triumph project. A week of work has gone into it since this photo...
Last edited by Prof on Wed Apr 12, 2006 11:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Chopit'nrideit... Prof
Bazza's Triumph project
Awesome bike. It looks great. What rake,and what length forks?
chopper al
chopper al
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APACHE ROD
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2005 11:56 pm
- Location: North Rockhampton
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Prof
- Founder, Choppers Australia
- Posts: 6038
- Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
- Location: Willunga, South Australia
- Contact:
Forward controls, engine mounts & rear mudguard...
Well here are a couple of photos of progress, but to answer those questions first...
1. Rake is approximately 48 degrees
2. Springer is about 9½" longer than standard forks.
Forward controls...
Made the two forward control brackets out of 10mm steel plate. Cut them out with an angle grinder with 2mm thick blades. Much neater than using gas cutter. The frame tubes are not very heavy walled, so I made attachment area over 6".
Rather than weld brackets directly to frame, I made up a 6"x 1" x 10mm threaded plates to weld on first. Forward control pbrackets bolt to this. This way mounting brackets can be chrome plated and easily replaced or modified.
Gear lever is Harley. Protrusion you see done the bottom of it will be welded to gear lever. Serated hole in gear lever will be drilled out and a large tube made and welded on for gear lever to pivot on.
Engine mounts...
The previous mounts were way too thin. These have been made from 4mm angle and 5mm bar. If there had been more space I would have used thicker angle. Its amazing what can be done with an angle gricer and linishing wheel! Oh the days when all we had were hacksaws and files. All bolts on bike (except engine) will be 3/8 UNC, 5/16 UNF and 1/4 UNF stainless button head allen bolts. I'm trying to find someqhere in Australia who can reliably supply me as SA bolt people are saying a fortnight and minimum quantities of 50 per size.
Number plate/tail light mounting...
How's this for an interesting shape? The neck of the bird is the tab that holds the bottom of the number plate. The Tail feathers and wing feathers fold back into the Harley Mudguard Bazz has chosento use. This has been welded into the inside of the guard and the mudguard stays bolt through the mudguard and onto the extreme ends of this bracket. Forgot to take a picture of it folded...
Rear Guard...
Mudguard stays are made from 4mm bar that tapers from 1¼" to 3/4". Wider part before bend lines up with removable sissy bar that will mount on mudguard. Bottom inch is welded double thickness and drilled and threaded to take 3/8 UNC for mounting bolt.
Triangular holes were cut out after I made a little cutting wheel for my die grinder using a left over angle grinder blade (1½" diam) mounted on an arbor from a worn out wire brush, plus a few mudguard washers. Cuts beautifully. Holes are to allow the tail light to be seen from the side.
1. Rake is approximately 48 degrees
2. Springer is about 9½" longer than standard forks.
Forward controls...
Made the two forward control brackets out of 10mm steel plate. Cut them out with an angle grinder with 2mm thick blades. Much neater than using gas cutter. The frame tubes are not very heavy walled, so I made attachment area over 6".
Rather than weld brackets directly to frame, I made up a 6"x 1" x 10mm threaded plates to weld on first. Forward control pbrackets bolt to this. This way mounting brackets can be chrome plated and easily replaced or modified.
Gear lever is Harley. Protrusion you see done the bottom of it will be welded to gear lever. Serated hole in gear lever will be drilled out and a large tube made and welded on for gear lever to pivot on.
Engine mounts...
The previous mounts were way too thin. These have been made from 4mm angle and 5mm bar. If there had been more space I would have used thicker angle. Its amazing what can be done with an angle gricer and linishing wheel! Oh the days when all we had were hacksaws and files. All bolts on bike (except engine) will be 3/8 UNC, 5/16 UNF and 1/4 UNF stainless button head allen bolts. I'm trying to find someqhere in Australia who can reliably supply me as SA bolt people are saying a fortnight and minimum quantities of 50 per size.
Number plate/tail light mounting...
How's this for an interesting shape? The neck of the bird is the tab that holds the bottom of the number plate. The Tail feathers and wing feathers fold back into the Harley Mudguard Bazz has chosento use. This has been welded into the inside of the guard and the mudguard stays bolt through the mudguard and onto the extreme ends of this bracket. Forgot to take a picture of it folded...
Rear Guard...
Mudguard stays are made from 4mm bar that tapers from 1¼" to 3/4". Wider part before bend lines up with removable sissy bar that will mount on mudguard. Bottom inch is welded double thickness and drilled and threaded to take 3/8 UNC for mounting bolt.
Triangular holes were cut out after I made a little cutting wheel for my die grinder using a left over angle grinder blade (1½" diam) mounted on an arbor from a worn out wire brush, plus a few mudguard washers. Cuts beautifully. Holes are to allow the tail light to be seen from the side.
Last edited by Prof on Sat Mar 18, 2006 7:23 am, edited 2 times in total.
Chopit'nrideit... Prof
-
Prof
- Founder, Choppers Australia
- Posts: 6038
- Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
- Location: Willunga, South Australia
- Contact:
Bazzas triumph seat...
Sprung solo pad...
Bazza wants a solo pad with removable sissy bar and pillion pad. He's a fairly solid bloke so good springs and a substantial seat is required... First step is to sort out mounting points on frame. They need to be strong and hinging needs to have minimal play for both safety and comfort. Seat base will be made from 3mm aluminium; very rigid but light; steel flexes too much for my liking...
Old caravan siding aluminium is great for making a template. Draw a centre line and once you've worked out the rough shape, get one side drawn neatly and cut out. Then using some paper, trace the shape and transfer it to the other side for a nice symetrical seat. For a good looking seat, keep curves smooth flowing. For comfort, provide adequate support and don't cut off circulation on your lower thighs where they cross the seat edge. For this reason also, when it comes to upholstery, don't use piping.
Here's the left rear mounting hole drilled in frame gusset. Frame appears to be home built and all welds are brazed - nothing wrong with gas and bronze...
These springs are genuine 1930's seat springs. Bushes made on lathe are welded into frame (see previous photo) to provide rigid support for springs... You can have springs made at spring makers. If they are too hard or too soft, makers can vary them using different length coils and thickness 'wire'...
Springs mounted. You can see turned mount protruding under neath far enough to make tightening nut easy (very un-Britlish!)...
Seat pivot made from two pieces of 4mm angle welded in centre Takes a 3/8" UNF bolt. Left ear is threaded...
Matching pivot tongue under front of seat. It is a firm fit over bolt to prevent seat from wobbling side to side. Very important...
Tongue needs to be removable for upholstery. These threaded plates (5/16UNF) on top of seat base are held in place with a 3/16' pop rivet each...
Seat would sit too high if mounted on top of springs, so some aluminium has been cut out and metal mounts each with a bolt to secure top of spring made. They are held in with 3/16" countersunk bolts yet to be cut off and pened over nuts so they can't come loose...
Here's seat in position ...
Foam padding... I only ever use consolidated foam (50mm thick) for bike seats as on a long trip you need all the springiness you can get. Plain foam is dead and botrot sets in pretty quickly. Cut foam with a very sharp knife (while they are still legal) or electric carving knife. Gently stretch foam away from cut so knife doesn't drag...
Shaping around spring mounts is done first with knife and then tidied up on bench grinder...
Here foam is glued to seat using Selley's gel grip. Note triangular insert between base and back pieces to allow a smooth curve to be made to fit Bazza's bum. Texta marks are to guide knife cuts followed by shaping with an angle grinder (grinding wheel not cutting disc). Lines across seat are measuuring guides. With your angle grinder you can discover your inner sculptural gift and become the new Michaelangelo of bike seats! Take it slowly and use a mask or you'll choke...
Seat ready for a layer of 10mm soft foam to smooth any irregularities, a layer of plastic to keep foam dry in winter and upholstory... Bazza tells me he has a pretty wild scheme in mind...
Bazza wants a solo pad with removable sissy bar and pillion pad. He's a fairly solid bloke so good springs and a substantial seat is required... First step is to sort out mounting points on frame. They need to be strong and hinging needs to have minimal play for both safety and comfort. Seat base will be made from 3mm aluminium; very rigid but light; steel flexes too much for my liking...
Old caravan siding aluminium is great for making a template. Draw a centre line and once you've worked out the rough shape, get one side drawn neatly and cut out. Then using some paper, trace the shape and transfer it to the other side for a nice symetrical seat. For a good looking seat, keep curves smooth flowing. For comfort, provide adequate support and don't cut off circulation on your lower thighs where they cross the seat edge. For this reason also, when it comes to upholstery, don't use piping.
Here's the left rear mounting hole drilled in frame gusset. Frame appears to be home built and all welds are brazed - nothing wrong with gas and bronze...
These springs are genuine 1930's seat springs. Bushes made on lathe are welded into frame (see previous photo) to provide rigid support for springs... You can have springs made at spring makers. If they are too hard or too soft, makers can vary them using different length coils and thickness 'wire'...
Springs mounted. You can see turned mount protruding under neath far enough to make tightening nut easy (very un-Britlish!)...
Seat pivot made from two pieces of 4mm angle welded in centre Takes a 3/8" UNF bolt. Left ear is threaded...
Matching pivot tongue under front of seat. It is a firm fit over bolt to prevent seat from wobbling side to side. Very important...
Tongue needs to be removable for upholstery. These threaded plates (5/16UNF) on top of seat base are held in place with a 3/16' pop rivet each...
Seat would sit too high if mounted on top of springs, so some aluminium has been cut out and metal mounts each with a bolt to secure top of spring made. They are held in with 3/16" countersunk bolts yet to be cut off and pened over nuts so they can't come loose...
Here's seat in position ...
Foam padding... I only ever use consolidated foam (50mm thick) for bike seats as on a long trip you need all the springiness you can get. Plain foam is dead and botrot sets in pretty quickly. Cut foam with a very sharp knife (while they are still legal) or electric carving knife. Gently stretch foam away from cut so knife doesn't drag...
Shaping around spring mounts is done first with knife and then tidied up on bench grinder...
Here foam is glued to seat using Selley's gel grip. Note triangular insert between base and back pieces to allow a smooth curve to be made to fit Bazza's bum. Texta marks are to guide knife cuts followed by shaping with an angle grinder (grinding wheel not cutting disc). Lines across seat are measuuring guides. With your angle grinder you can discover your inner sculptural gift and become the new Michaelangelo of bike seats! Take it slowly and use a mask or you'll choke...
Seat ready for a layer of 10mm soft foam to smooth any irregularities, a layer of plastic to keep foam dry in winter and upholstory... Bazza tells me he has a pretty wild scheme in mind...
Last edited by Prof on Wed Apr 12, 2006 11:44 pm, edited 6 times in total.
Chopit'nrideit... Prof
-
Prof
- Founder, Choppers Australia
- Posts: 6038
- Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
- Location: Willunga, South Australia
- Contact:
New top frame tube...
Close inspection revealed a hairline crack in the moulding a couple of inches behind steering head. Gussets (very badly designed) were removed along with moulding to reveal a crack running half the circumference of the top tube. Tube was also bent slightly and a large hole for wiring had been drilled under the crack. Tubing was only 1.6mmm wall thickness, definitely not strong enough in my estimation...
Steering head alignment needs to be maintained when tube is replaced. I use an alignment tool made from a threaded .22 barrel centred by machined cones and holding a carefully centred laser pointer. Whole bike is clamped to a frame and where laser hits a sturdy extension, is marked with Texta for future reference.
This is why...!. When frame members are cut, they usually go sprong!... and out goes your alignment...
New tube is 4mm wall thickness. Easiest way to get thick walled "tube" is to buy "pipe"...
The hole on left is one of two fuel tank mounts. It is countersunk, so when threaded in insert is welded in and filed back level, there is still plenty of weld to hold it. Inserts are made from a bit of 3/4" round bar drilled and tapped. I use fine threads almost every where as they are more vibration resistant. End of pipe is shaped with angle cutter and grinder to fit steering head neatly. Needs patience.
Here's insert ready to weld. Long bolt is used with set square to ensure it is perpendicular, otherwise tank will lean to side and bolt will sit against tank bracket at an angle...
These are for top engine mount bracket. Tube is upside down for photo.
Top tube fitted. I cut back into existing 1/8" steel plate over seat frame tubing to add tortional rigidity.
.
Engine mount... I've found this to be the best way to bend thick bar. Mark bends (allowing for thickness of bar) with angle grinder (1mm discs), bend slowly and when entire bracket is bent correctly weld open cuts. When weld cools it will pull and open up bends slightly . A bit of muscle and a vice will get it right. Two cuts on the top right are cos I mismeasured. Deeper one is correct.
Bend welded. Extra weld at ends is so when filing is complete the edge will be sharp all around. Template made using caravan siding aluminium is in background
Welded and filed. I cheat and use a linishing belt on a multitool.
This project called for coil mounts under tank, so they are welded to engine mount...
When welding the top tube to steering head and frame, the laser pointer spot moved from side to side as short beads of weld cooled. ie don't do continuous welds unless your frame components are tightly held in a jig. Once top tube is welded all way around, final alignment will be achieved by a last bead of weld to pull it into line. Weld will then be ground off.
Close inspection revealed a hairline crack in the moulding a couple of inches behind steering head. Gussets (very badly designed) were removed along with moulding to reveal a crack running half the circumference of the top tube. Tube was also bent slightly and a large hole for wiring had been drilled under the crack. Tubing was only 1.6mmm wall thickness, definitely not strong enough in my estimation...
Steering head alignment needs to be maintained when tube is replaced. I use an alignment tool made from a threaded .22 barrel centred by machined cones and holding a carefully centred laser pointer. Whole bike is clamped to a frame and where laser hits a sturdy extension, is marked with Texta for future reference.
This is why...!. When frame members are cut, they usually go sprong!... and out goes your alignment...
New tube is 4mm wall thickness. Easiest way to get thick walled "tube" is to buy "pipe"...
The hole on left is one of two fuel tank mounts. It is countersunk, so when threaded in insert is welded in and filed back level, there is still plenty of weld to hold it. Inserts are made from a bit of 3/4" round bar drilled and tapped. I use fine threads almost every where as they are more vibration resistant. End of pipe is shaped with angle cutter and grinder to fit steering head neatly. Needs patience.
Here's insert ready to weld. Long bolt is used with set square to ensure it is perpendicular, otherwise tank will lean to side and bolt will sit against tank bracket at an angle...
These are for top engine mount bracket. Tube is upside down for photo.
Top tube fitted. I cut back into existing 1/8" steel plate over seat frame tubing to add tortional rigidity.
.
Engine mount... I've found this to be the best way to bend thick bar. Mark bends (allowing for thickness of bar) with angle grinder (1mm discs), bend slowly and when entire bracket is bent correctly weld open cuts. When weld cools it will pull and open up bends slightly . A bit of muscle and a vice will get it right. Two cuts on the top right are cos I mismeasured. Deeper one is correct.
Bend welded. Extra weld at ends is so when filing is complete the edge will be sharp all around. Template made using caravan siding aluminium is in background
Welded and filed. I cheat and use a linishing belt on a multitool.
This project called for coil mounts under tank, so they are welded to engine mount...
When welding the top tube to steering head and frame, the laser pointer spot moved from side to side as short beads of weld cooled. ie don't do continuous welds unless your frame components are tightly held in a jig. Once top tube is welded all way around, final alignment will be achieved by a last bead of weld to pull it into line. Weld will then be ground off.
Chopit'nrideit... Prof
stainless fasteners
For stainless fasteners you could try:
Austain
164 Abernethy Road
BELMONT
Western Australia 6104
( 08 ) 9479 1277
FAX 1800 676 800
I know they're in Perth, but they also have branches in Vic, NSW (head office) and Qld..not SA from what I could find. Google "Austain"
I recently purchased some stainless bits n bobs from them in Perth. Outstanding service, but they are a wholesaler, so you may need to use a business name when ordering
I simply told them I was from the Yamaha dealership I work for, and picked 'em up COD at their branch. They didn't insist on any minimum quantities, but do have a minimum sale of ten bucks. It's real easy to spend a tenner on stainless 
Austain
164 Abernethy Road
BELMONT
Western Australia 6104
( 08 ) 9479 1277
FAX 1800 676 800
I know they're in Perth, but they also have branches in Vic, NSW (head office) and Qld..not SA from what I could find. Google "Austain"
I recently purchased some stainless bits n bobs from them in Perth. Outstanding service, but they are a wholesaler, so you may need to use a business name when ordering
I simply told them I was from the Yamaha dealership I work for, and picked 'em up COD at their branch. They didn't insist on any minimum quantities, but do have a minimum sale of ten bucks. It's real easy to spend a tenner on stainless cheers
Thespis
W.A.
1982 XLH (getting there...)
2009 Speed Triple
2005 FZ1/DJP sidecar (sidecar very soon)
'68/'76 T140V Chop
Thespis
W.A.
1982 XLH (getting there...)
2009 Speed Triple
2005 FZ1/DJP sidecar (sidecar very soon)
'68/'76 T140V Chop
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Bacca
stainless fasteners
For stainless fasteners you could also try:Shire Stainless on shirestainless.com.au or email sales@shirestainless.com.au
I got some off them on ebay.
I also got a engine set from Stainlesscycle bolts in USA
stainlesscycle.com or email info@stainlesscycle.com
Going to be a nice looking bike. Bacca
I got some off them on ebay.
I also got a engine set from Stainlesscycle bolts in USA
stainlesscycle.com or email info@stainlesscycle.com
Going to be a nice looking bike. Bacca
bolt people in adelaide
have u tried united fastners on cavan road?
there is another place on grand junction road that i use but can't think of their name they sell in single and they are not very expensive
chers podgyad
there is another place on grand junction road that i use but can't think of their name they sell in single and they are not very expensive
chers podgyad
